Travels in Eire #12

Cailin headed west from Derry leaving Northern Ireland toward Lough Swilly in County Donegal. There was no border, no guards, as there might have been years ago. The road signs were slightly different, and location signs were in both Gaelic and English now. Lough Swilly was a great resort area in the summer but it was also steeped in history. There were many stone age monuments, the Martello towers, and the story of the Flight of the Earls. Cailin had read about all of this before coming to Ireland. She loved the history of the area and wanted to take it all in. After stopping several times to sight see, she saw a sign for a cottage B&B and stopped by to see if there was a room available. A little elderly lady came to the door with a crisp white apron tied loosely around her tiny waist and introduced herself as Maeve, the owner. She welcomed Cailin showing her the one room available on the second floor. Cailin was amazed when she looked out the window and saw an incredible view of the lough from her room. She also sensed the smell of something baking downstairs and followed the scent down to the neatly set dining room where tea and scones had been set out for the guests. The room was flooded with the sunlight of the day and one side was full of windows looking out to the lough. Cailin picked up a warm scone from the display table, put some butter on the plate and some whiskey marmalade. Seating herself at a small table by a window she poured a cup of tea and enjoyed the warmth of the sun and flavors of this great treat. No sooner had she settled in than her cell phone rang. As she looked at the caller ID, she grinned. It was Darren.
“Are you missing me already?” she answered the phone.
“You bet,” Darren replied. “Just wanted to make sure you arrived in one piece. I also wanted to make sure you know that if you need anything you can just call. I know people all around the countryside and can get you help. Or I'll come and find you myself to help.”
After a short chat Cailin hung up, but the smile was still there as she gazed out the window. Maeve stopped by her table to ask if everything was okay.
“You look so lost in thought, lassie.”
“It's fine, I'm just enjoying my trip so very much,” Cailin responded. “I think I'll take a walk out by the lough this afternoon.”
“Be wary while you are there. There's many a story about how the lough is dangerous and how many have lost their lives there. It's truly a mysterious place at times.”
Cailin bid a good afternoon to Maeve, and with the warning in the back of her mind headed down to the shore for a stroll. The beach was actually deserted this afternoon as the clouds were out. The lough is extremely deep and the water a dark gray from the sky's reflection. Cailin could see how this scene could be ominous and foreboding. Yet this mysterious lough had a magical pull to it, almost mesmerizing. A chill ran up her spine and she shuddered. It was time to head back. Cailin sensed a sadness here. Or maybe it was just her.

It must have been hours that she was gone, even though it only felt like a short time. She checked her watch and it was past seven. As she walked back toward the B&B she stopped at a pub for some supper and a hot whiskey. Here she noticed as many times before that while she was welcomed in the pub, there were no other women. As she sat at the bar she asked the barman about this. He explained that most women in the countryside are at home during the week and come out to the pubs on the weekend when there is music, mostly Thursday and Saturday nights, and some Sunday afternoons. Since this was a weekday, it's mostly the men after work.
“Why is there no music on Friday night? Cailin asked.
“We don't need music to pull in the crowds on Friday, missy. It's payday and everyone heads to the pub on Friday after work,” he responded smiling.
It was a quiet night in the pub, and Cailin noticed that it was getting late. She would be heading up to the northern most point in County Donegal tomorrow and wanted to get a good night's rest. She said her goodnight to the barman and headed back to the B&B. When she got to her room, she took a last look out the window to see the moon setting over the lough. It was an eerie look. Cailin pulled the curtains closed and curled up under the down covers to a restless night's sleep. She dreamed of waves washing over her and trying to pull her into the lough. Must have been the stories that Maeve put into her head earlier in the day.