Friday, January 1, 2010

Travels in Eire #17

From the Galway exchange Darren headed out following the sign that said Connemara Coast Road. They were on the south side of the peninsula and Cailin could see Galway Bay to their left. They had barely headed out the road when Darren pulled off into a parking lot for the Connemara Coast Hotel. He parked the car and turned to Cailin.

“I want to show you something,” he casually told her.

They exited the car and Cailin followed Darren around the side of the hotel along what appeared to be a well traveled pathway. The day was clear and slightly breezy, but you couldn't ask for more. As they walked the path they approached the rocky Connemara Coast. It was breath-taking. The smell of the water and sound of it lapping up on the huge smooth rocks almost made Cailin dizzy with exhilaration. Darren could see her joy.

“It's amazing, isn't it? It's my favorite place to come when I need to think, or just let go of all the stresses of life. On a day like today you can see across to The Burren. I thought it might be a good idea to stop here before we get to my parents,” he said standing close to her as he pointed out the scene across the bay.

Cailin turned to respond to Darren not realizing how close his face was to hers, “Darren, I can't get over how well you seem to read my feelings. You always seem to be a step ahead of me.” Without question there was definitely a connection between the two of them.

“So is there anything I can do to help you feel better about this situation? Can I answer any questions?” Darren was trying hard to help make things better.

“Darren, I think I'd like to know about your grandparents. I know that might be strange, but it will help me understand your parents better. Telling me about your brother has helped a lot, but knowing about how your parents grew up here in Ireland will help even more.”
Darren explained how his grandfather, who lived with them, had been a farmer with some small farmland and a peat bog out in Connemara. It was where his mother grew up with his grandfather playing the whistle every chance he got. As people learned of his talent he entered competitions and won many of them. When Darren's grandmother became ill, his mother spent hours at the hospital, and came to admire the nurses that cared for his grandmother. It was then that she decided to go into medicine, little knowing that she would end up at the administrative end of medical care helping patients and families deal with the hardships of illness of family members. When his grandmother passed away, his grandfather tried to carry on with the farmland and bog, but after Darren's mother married and moved out his mother was worried about him all alone, so he sold the farm and moved in with Darren's parents bringing his musical talent with him.
On Darren's father's side it was a different story. Darren explained that his grandparents on his father's side are still both alive and living and working in Galway. They like the vibrancy of the city and have a small flat there. Darren's father met his mother while his mom was attending school in Galway. He mostly manages the B&B and does a little handy work around the neighborhood. Darren continued to explain that since his grandfather lives with his parents they often have well known musical visitors stay at the B&B and that keeps his father very busy. And it's great craic.

By this time Darren and Cailin had returned to the car and were heading down the coast road, when Darren slowed and turned up a narrowly barely paved road in the town of Spiddal. After about a mile he turned into an opening in wall along the roadway that was the entry to his parent's house.

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Travels in Eire #16

From Donegal on the trip was fun and enjoyable. Darren was more relaxed and Cailin could put away the fact that she would be meeting Darren's parents under a stressful situation for several hours. She would deal with it like she does all things in her life, with honesty and being straightforward. That was what she thought at least.
The road took them south through Bundoran and along the coast as they traveled to Sligo. Just a quick pull off the road and they were at the Drumcliffe Cemetery where W.B. Yeats was buried. Cailin knew very little about her grandfather's birthplace, except that it was Sligo. But she loved poetry and Yeats was one of her favorites. They wandered through the gravestones until they found Yeats. When Cailin looked up from the gravestone, she noticed she was looking at the looming size of Ben Bulben between two trees. It was an impressive scene. Cailin suddenly realized that as she traveled this incredible countryside, she was becoming more entrenched in the culture and background of her family. She was well aware that at some point she was going to have to return home, and already she could sense what a sad situation that would be.

Darren seemed to pick up on Cailin's feelings and tried to lighten up the mood with discussion about music. He talked about how all the famous writer's spent so much time in the pubs of Dublin, sometimes writing some of their best work in the pubs, probably inspired by the music and patrons of the day. He told Cailin that they would have to visit at least a couple of pubs on the Connemara Coast where his friends might be playing. Cailin love the idea of listening to more trad music and having Darren share his love of the music with her was an extra treat.

The drive from Sligo to Galway was a long one, through the countryside. Everything was green, multiple shades of green, from the fields to the rolling hills, grasses, shrubs and mosses. It had a very calming effect on Cailin. It made her smile.
“What are you smiling about?” Darren asked as he maneuvered along the narrow roadway.
“I just realized how happy I am being here in Ireland. No, wait, it's how happy I feel being here.” she responded as if reflecting on her thoughts.
“I just can't believe you are so relaxed and reflective knowing what you know about meeting my parents!”
“Darren, I can't let what is going to happen hours from now spoil this wonderful trip.” Cailin tried to be calm in responding to Darren. “Let me know when we are about thirty minutes away from your parents and then you'll see me freak out!” She teased him.
“Cailin, I like your attitude. Maybe that's something I should consider doing.” and he laughed that laugh that made Cailin smile even more.

They chatted about everything as they drove along the road. Darren talked about places that Cailin should have on her “next visit” list, and Cailin asked about places she had heard about and whether they were worth the time for a visit. Some of these included a return visit to County Donegal and stay at a resort where Cailin could spend time horseback riding on the beach, a return to Sligo and tour the Ben Bulben road around and out to the ocean and close up visit to the mountain. This trip would not include the Cliffs of Moher or The Burren, or any of the sites to the south. It seemed like there was always more to see. How could that be in the small country?
Darren took offense to the term “small country” and explained that in terms of ancient Europe, Ireland was an important stronghold. Countries felt if they could control Ireland, they would control the ancient world. Great idea, but it didn't ever seem to work for any controlling country for very long. He explained with the contagious grin.

Cailin could see the sign that said Galway and knew they were getting near. her stomach started to turn into knots as Darren gave her the thirty minute warning.

Monday, December 28, 2009

Time away for the holidays

Just wanted to let those who have been following my posts that I've taken a short hiatus for the holidays. I hope to have a new chapter up in the next couple of days. Thanks for reading my blog.

I hope all of you are enjoying the story.

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Travels in Eire #15

Darren pulled the car over just south of Donegal where there was a beautiful view of the ocean. They exited the car and walked over to take a look at the view. Cailin figured she was going to have to start somewhere.
“Darren, I know something is bothering you. You are not telling me something. I don't like being kept in the lurch like this. It's not fair to either one of us. I know I don't know you that well, so this may be something that isn't even my business. But I need for you to help me out here. I'm feeling very uneasy.”

“Cailin, you are right, there is a problem, but I don't see it as anything major.”

“Major enough for your whole personality to change since we last spent time together,” Cailin was getting very frustrated. “It had to happen since you left me last night.”

“Okay, but please don't be angry. I really didn't plan on any of this happening. I thought it would be different this time.”

“THIS TIME!!” Cailin shouted before she realized that she was shouting.

Darren suddenly took a step back from her in surprise at her tone. “Wait....it's not that...well....I mean....”

“Darren you had better start clearing up things pretty quickly here,” Cailin was getting worried. Who was this person?

“Alright, let me figure out how to start this.”

“Shouldn't be too hard Darren. Start at the beginning,” she responded sarcastically.

“Okay, here it is. This all started with my older brother. A few years ago he met an American tourist in Dublin. He was working there in a bank. They started dating while she was here in Ireland. My parents loved her. She was perfect for Conner. But she had to go back home. Conner was broken hearted and ended up leaving his job and moving to America. He got married over there without any family around. Mum and Da miss him so much. They really can't afford to go visit. He's been back here once for a short time to let us know he and his wife are expecting a baby. Now it's even worse for them. They are saving up so they can go visit.
So when I called my parents last night after I got home to tell them I was bringing you, they were very upset. I talked to them again this morning and they didn't even want to meet you. They are afraid the same thing is going to happen to me that happened with Conner.”

“Darren, out of curiosity, did you tell them we had only just met and really haven't dated, per se?” Cailin was wondering what Darren told them.

“Cailin, I tried to explain that we had met and connected, but that I was going to be your tour guide for a couple of days. They are already jumping to conclusions. I told them in no uncertain terms that I was bringing you along. So mostly I'm worried about how they will treat you when we arrive.”

“Darren, I'm not your girlfriend, and we're not getting married anytime soon, or ever, that I see. Trust me I'll make that very clear to your parents. I like you and enjoy being with you, but a relationship is just not in the plan for me at the moment.” Cailin was trying to get the point across to Darren so he wouldn't worry, or get the wrong idea about her.

“So are we on the same page, Darren?” Cailin asked. Darren nodded back. “Then you should be in a much better mood for the rest of the day, right?”

“Cailin, I'm so glad I could talk to you about this. I was so worried about what you would think. I never thought it would be an issue with my parents. I wasn't thinking, I apologize. But now that everything is out in the open, I feel much better.”

Cailin could see the change in Darren's demeanor and knew he felt much better now. She also knew this was going to be a couple very interesting days, especially meeting Darren's parents.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Travels in Eire #14

Cailin slept well that night after the restless night before. Even while it was summer, the weather was cool enough to use the down comforter and get comfy in the bed. Her dreams were of windswept skies, green hillsides and fences of stone. And as she walked through the fields, a man walked with her. She could not make out who it was, but she felt secure and loved and warm all over. It had been a very long time since she had such happy dreams like this.

Morning arrived quickly and Cailin showered, dressed and headed downstairs with her bag for some breakfast before Darren arrived and they headed out for the trip to Galway. The trip was 169 miles, but with some sightseeing stops and the fact this was Ireland, it would take all day. They would probably arrive quite late, but with sunset around ten, it would still be light out. It was going to be a long day though.

Cailin thought she remembered Darren saying he would arrive at the B&B by 8am, but here it was 8:15 and there was no sign of Darren. Should she call him? Was she being to anxious? She decided to take her backpack out to the car and as she closed the trunk and turned around she saw Darren walking down the street toward her. It was almost 8:30.
“Sorry, had to take care of a few things,” he muttered mysteriously. “So how are you this morning? Did you sleep well?” he asked as if to brush off his first statement.
“I'm fine, is everything okay?” Cailin couldn't help but wonder if there was something she was missing, but Darren only smiled and nodded back.

“So where's you map, Cailin? I want to make sure you understand the route we are going to take and if there is something you want to see, we'll make a detour so you don't miss anything.”

They spread the map out over the hood of the car and planned the trip. They would head back out through Donegal and then south to Sligo. Cailin wanted to stop by Drumcliffe and see W.B. Yeats tomb and his famous mountain, Ben Bulben. She loved his poetry and just wanted to get a feel for the area. Besides this was where her grandfather had grown up. From there it would be further south to Cong and a visit to the Abbey there. It was an incredible ruin from pictures she had seen. Then on to Galway and west of Galway to Barna and Furbo where Darren's family was located. It would be a very long day.

Darren was unusually quiet at the start of the day. Cailin knew something was not right, she could sense it, but wasn't sure what it was. Was all this friendliness and flirting just a way to get to her? Was he taking advantage to get a ride to Galway? She hoped Darren would share, but was not going to push him. Once they were out on the open road, not really a highway, but a two lane road out of the city, Darren started the conversation asking Cailin about her interest in Ireland and Northern Ireland.

Cailin explained about getting lost on her way to the Antrim Coast and ending up in Mullaghmore. She told Darren about traveling to Ardboe and finding her great grandmother's name on an old memorial at the cemetery and and realizing it was who she was named after. While O'Neill was not her last name, it had always been part of the family name. She told Darren about how she found a relative in Mullaghmore who helped her get started on this journey.

And now to make the connection with where her grandfather had grown up before he left for American, would help her continue this journey.

At this point Cailin realized that she had been doing most of the talking while Darren drove and quietly listened. Finally Cailin had enough of his silence.
“Darren, I know we haven't been on the road for very long, but could we pull over at the next stop?” Darren didn't seem to pick up on Cailin's concern, and probably thought she just needed a rest stop. Little did Cailin, or even Darren know, from this point on, all things would change.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Travels in Eire #13

Cailin woke up a little worse for the wear but decided after a hearty breakfast that she would continue on the tour plan that she set up. Today she would head up to Gleveagh Park at the northern tip of Couty Donegal, and then head back down south and into Budoran or the town of Donegal depending on time.
It was a beautiful drive through the Derryveagh Mountains. Glenveagh was owned off and on by Irish Americans until it was turned over to the Irish government. The castle borders on Lough Veagh and this morning there was a hauntlingly misty fog over the lough. It just added more to the beauty of the area. The gardens were wonderfully manicured and the trails lead Cailin winding in and out of incredible views of the mountains and lough. Cailin was hoping to catch of glimpse of some of the red deer who roam the mountains here as one of the few remaining herds of red deer in Ireland.

Wishing she had a day or two here to hike the trails, Cailin put this location on her list of places to revisit and headed south toward the town of Donegal. The funny thing was that when she arrived at the crossroads on the motorway with one direction going further south to Donegal and the other heading back toward Derry, she suddenly found herself on the road to Derry. She was changing her plan and was not quite sure what was in store for her.
Cailin knew that if she was going to head back to Derry she needed to call Darren. She pulled off the road to grab a quick snack at Letterkenny and dialed his number. “What am I doing?” she asked herself as the phone rang.
“Well, well, Cailin, what can I do for you?” answered Darren.
She could tell by his voice he was pleased that she called.
“Well...,” she paused as she was not quite sure what to tell Darren. “I was coming south from Glenveagh and decided to come back to Derry.”
She waited for a response from Darren that would help her decide if she made a mistake heading back to Derry.
“Cailin, where are you? I can't believe you're coming back! What a very pleasant surprise.” Darren was being cautious with his enthusiasm.
“I'm in Buncarna and will be in Derry in about thirty minutes. Is that okay?” again she was trying to get a feeling as to whether she had made the right decision.
“Let me give you directions to where I am. I'll be off work by the time you are here and we can spend the rest of the day together.”
At last the slightest of a suggestion that Darren might be glad to see her.

She followed the directions into town and drove through the gateway to the hospital entrance finding Darren standing out front waiting for her. She couldn't miss that smile turning into a great grin, and she felt so much more at ease.
“I don't know what possessed me to do this,” she explained apologetically to Darren.
“Well, if you had not come back to Derry, I probably would have taken a day off to come and find you,” Darren chuckled surprising himself.

There was something so comfortable about being with Darren. Cailin had never met a man so easygoing and comfortable with himself. Darren watched Cailin as she seemed to be getting her bearings as a young woman. Smart, intelligent, but still a little unsure of herself, and not really connected yet. He found her openness very appealing.

This time Darren drove the rental car to a beautiful park just on the outside of Derry. They exited the car and walked over to a bench overlooking a pond. As they sat down Darren sat close to Cailin and asked, “Do you mind?” as he put his arm around her shoulders.
Cailin turned, looked into Darren's eyes, smiled and said, “Not at all.”

Cailin recounted her visit to Lough Swilly and how she felt the mystery of the place envelop her. And then told Darren about the beautiful gardens and trails at Glenveagh Park. He loved hearing about his country through Cailin's eyes.

“So what now, Cailin?” Darren asked. Cailin didn't quite know how to respond.
“ I guess I should get back on track and head for Galway. But it's a long drive from here, so I guess I'll be spending the night in Derry.”
Darren had a plan, but was unsure how Cailin would take the idea.
“Cailin, I have the next 3 days off, and like I told you the other day, my parents have a B&B just outside of Galway. I was going to take the train and visit them this weekend. How would you feel if we drove there together tomorrow? You would have a place to stay at the B&B and I could be your tour guide on the way?”
Cailin was thrilled at the idea, but didn't want Darren to think she was too anxious for the trip.
She gathered her emotions together and calmly told Darren that it was a wonderful idea, especially having a personal tour guide. Besides, driving all alone for hours was not what she considered a fun trip! So they sat and planned the next day's trip until dinner time. Darren suggested a little bistro where they went to eat and finalize plans. Cailin would stay at a B&B tonight near where Darren lived so they could get an early start in the morning. After Darren saw Cailin settled in the B&B he left, walking home in the still evening.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Travels in Eire #12

Cailin headed west from Derry leaving Northern Ireland toward Lough Swilly in County Donegal. There was no border, no guards, as there might have been years ago. The road signs were slightly different, and location signs were in both Gaelic and English now. Lough Swilly was a great resort area in the summer but it was also steeped in history. There were many stone age monuments, the Martello towers, and the story of the Flight of the Earls. Cailin had read about all of this before coming to Ireland. She loved the history of the area and wanted to take it all in. After stopping several times to sight see, she saw a sign for a cottage B&B and stopped by to see if there was a room available. A little elderly lady came to the door with a crisp white apron tied loosely around her tiny waist and introduced herself as Maeve, the owner. She welcomed Cailin showing her the one room available on the second floor. Cailin was amazed when she looked out the window and saw an incredible view of the lough from her room. She also sensed the smell of something baking downstairs and followed the scent down to the neatly set dining room where tea and scones had been set out for the guests. The room was flooded with the sunlight of the day and one side was full of windows looking out to the lough. Cailin picked up a warm scone from the display table, put some butter on the plate and some whiskey marmalade. Seating herself at a small table by a window she poured a cup of tea and enjoyed the warmth of the sun and flavors of this great treat. No sooner had she settled in than her cell phone rang. As she looked at the caller ID, she grinned. It was Darren.
“Are you missing me already?” she answered the phone.
“You bet,” Darren replied. “Just wanted to make sure you arrived in one piece. I also wanted to make sure you know that if you need anything you can just call. I know people all around the countryside and can get you help. Or I'll come and find you myself to help.”
After a short chat Cailin hung up, but the smile was still there as she gazed out the window. Maeve stopped by her table to ask if everything was okay.
“You look so lost in thought, lassie.”
“It's fine, I'm just enjoying my trip so very much,” Cailin responded. “I think I'll take a walk out by the lough this afternoon.”
“Be wary while you are there. There's many a story about how the lough is dangerous and how many have lost their lives there. It's truly a mysterious place at times.”
Cailin bid a good afternoon to Maeve, and with the warning in the back of her mind headed down to the shore for a stroll. The beach was actually deserted this afternoon as the clouds were out. The lough is extremely deep and the water a dark gray from the sky's reflection. Cailin could see how this scene could be ominous and foreboding. Yet this mysterious lough had a magical pull to it, almost mesmerizing. A chill ran up her spine and she shuddered. It was time to head back. Cailin sensed a sadness here. Or maybe it was just her.

It must have been hours that she was gone, even though it only felt like a short time. She checked her watch and it was past seven. As she walked back toward the B&B she stopped at a pub for some supper and a hot whiskey. Here she noticed as many times before that while she was welcomed in the pub, there were no other women. As she sat at the bar she asked the barman about this. He explained that most women in the countryside are at home during the week and come out to the pubs on the weekend when there is music, mostly Thursday and Saturday nights, and some Sunday afternoons. Since this was a weekday, it's mostly the men after work.
“Why is there no music on Friday night? Cailin asked.
“We don't need music to pull in the crowds on Friday, missy. It's payday and everyone heads to the pub on Friday after work,” he responded smiling.
It was a quiet night in the pub, and Cailin noticed that it was getting late. She would be heading up to the northern most point in County Donegal tomorrow and wanted to get a good night's rest. She said her goodnight to the barman and headed back to the B&B. When she got to her room, she took a last look out the window to see the moon setting over the lough. It was an eerie look. Cailin pulled the curtains closed and curled up under the down covers to a restless night's sleep. She dreamed of waves washing over her and trying to pull her into the lough. Must have been the stories that Maeve put into her head earlier in the day.