Travels in Eire #16

From Donegal on the trip was fun and enjoyable. Darren was more relaxed and Cailin could put away the fact that she would be meeting Darren's parents under a stressful situation for several hours. She would deal with it like she does all things in her life, with honesty and being straightforward. That was what she thought at least.
The road took them south through Bundoran and along the coast as they traveled to Sligo. Just a quick pull off the road and they were at the Drumcliffe Cemetery where W.B. Yeats was buried. Cailin knew very little about her grandfather's birthplace, except that it was Sligo. But she loved poetry and Yeats was one of her favorites. They wandered through the gravestones until they found Yeats. When Cailin looked up from the gravestone, she noticed she was looking at the looming size of Ben Bulben between two trees. It was an impressive scene. Cailin suddenly realized that as she traveled this incredible countryside, she was becoming more entrenched in the culture and background of her family. She was well aware that at some point she was going to have to return home, and already she could sense what a sad situation that would be.

Darren seemed to pick up on Cailin's feelings and tried to lighten up the mood with discussion about music. He talked about how all the famous writer's spent so much time in the pubs of Dublin, sometimes writing some of their best work in the pubs, probably inspired by the music and patrons of the day. He told Cailin that they would have to visit at least a couple of pubs on the Connemara Coast where his friends might be playing. Cailin love the idea of listening to more trad music and having Darren share his love of the music with her was an extra treat.

The drive from Sligo to Galway was a long one, through the countryside. Everything was green, multiple shades of green, from the fields to the rolling hills, grasses, shrubs and mosses. It had a very calming effect on Cailin. It made her smile.
“What are you smiling about?” Darren asked as he maneuvered along the narrow roadway.
“I just realized how happy I am being here in Ireland. No, wait, it's how happy I feel being here.” she responded as if reflecting on her thoughts.
“I just can't believe you are so relaxed and reflective knowing what you know about meeting my parents!”
“Darren, I can't let what is going to happen hours from now spoil this wonderful trip.” Cailin tried to be calm in responding to Darren. “Let me know when we are about thirty minutes away from your parents and then you'll see me freak out!” She teased him.
“Cailin, I like your attitude. Maybe that's something I should consider doing.” and he laughed that laugh that made Cailin smile even more.

They chatted about everything as they drove along the road. Darren talked about places that Cailin should have on her “next visit” list, and Cailin asked about places she had heard about and whether they were worth the time for a visit. Some of these included a return visit to County Donegal and stay at a resort where Cailin could spend time horseback riding on the beach, a return to Sligo and tour the Ben Bulben road around and out to the ocean and close up visit to the mountain. This trip would not include the Cliffs of Moher or The Burren, or any of the sites to the south. It seemed like there was always more to see. How could that be in the small country?
Darren took offense to the term “small country” and explained that in terms of ancient Europe, Ireland was an important stronghold. Countries felt if they could control Ireland, they would control the ancient world. Great idea, but it didn't ever seem to work for any controlling country for very long. He explained with the contagious grin.

Cailin could see the sign that said Galway and knew they were getting near. her stomach started to turn into knots as Darren gave her the thirty minute warning.

Time away for the holidays

Just wanted to let those who have been following my posts that I've taken a short hiatus for the holidays. I hope to have a new chapter up in the next couple of days. Thanks for reading my blog.

I hope all of you are enjoying the story.

Travels in Eire #15

Darren pulled the car over just south of Donegal where there was a beautiful view of the ocean. They exited the car and walked over to take a look at the view. Cailin figured she was going to have to start somewhere.
“Darren, I know something is bothering you. You are not telling me something. I don't like being kept in the lurch like this. It's not fair to either one of us. I know I don't know you that well, so this may be something that isn't even my business. But I need for you to help me out here. I'm feeling very uneasy.”

“Cailin, you are right, there is a problem, but I don't see it as anything major.”

“Major enough for your whole personality to change since we last spent time together,” Cailin was getting very frustrated. “It had to happen since you left me last night.”

“Okay, but please don't be angry. I really didn't plan on any of this happening. I thought it would be different this time.”

“THIS TIME!!” Cailin shouted before she realized that she was shouting.

Darren suddenly took a step back from her in surprise at her tone. “Wait....it's not that...well....I mean....”

“Darren you had better start clearing up things pretty quickly here,” Cailin was getting worried. Who was this person?

“Alright, let me figure out how to start this.”

“Shouldn't be too hard Darren. Start at the beginning,” she responded sarcastically.

“Okay, here it is. This all started with my older brother. A few years ago he met an American tourist in Dublin. He was working there in a bank. They started dating while she was here in Ireland. My parents loved her. She was perfect for Conner. But she had to go back home. Conner was broken hearted and ended up leaving his job and moving to America. He got married over there without any family around. Mum and Da miss him so much. They really can't afford to go visit. He's been back here once for a short time to let us know he and his wife are expecting a baby. Now it's even worse for them. They are saving up so they can go visit.
So when I called my parents last night after I got home to tell them I was bringing you, they were very upset. I talked to them again this morning and they didn't even want to meet you. They are afraid the same thing is going to happen to me that happened with Conner.”

“Darren, out of curiosity, did you tell them we had only just met and really haven't dated, per se?” Cailin was wondering what Darren told them.

“Cailin, I tried to explain that we had met and connected, but that I was going to be your tour guide for a couple of days. They are already jumping to conclusions. I told them in no uncertain terms that I was bringing you along. So mostly I'm worried about how they will treat you when we arrive.”

“Darren, I'm not your girlfriend, and we're not getting married anytime soon, or ever, that I see. Trust me I'll make that very clear to your parents. I like you and enjoy being with you, but a relationship is just not in the plan for me at the moment.” Cailin was trying to get the point across to Darren so he wouldn't worry, or get the wrong idea about her.

“So are we on the same page, Darren?” Cailin asked. Darren nodded back. “Then you should be in a much better mood for the rest of the day, right?”

“Cailin, I'm so glad I could talk to you about this. I was so worried about what you would think. I never thought it would be an issue with my parents. I wasn't thinking, I apologize. But now that everything is out in the open, I feel much better.”

Cailin could see the change in Darren's demeanor and knew he felt much better now. She also knew this was going to be a couple very interesting days, especially meeting Darren's parents.

Travels in Eire #14

Cailin slept well that night after the restless night before. Even while it was summer, the weather was cool enough to use the down comforter and get comfy in the bed. Her dreams were of windswept skies, green hillsides and fences of stone. And as she walked through the fields, a man walked with her. She could not make out who it was, but she felt secure and loved and warm all over. It had been a very long time since she had such happy dreams like this.

Morning arrived quickly and Cailin showered, dressed and headed downstairs with her bag for some breakfast before Darren arrived and they headed out for the trip to Galway. The trip was 169 miles, but with some sightseeing stops and the fact this was Ireland, it would take all day. They would probably arrive quite late, but with sunset around ten, it would still be light out. It was going to be a long day though.

Cailin thought she remembered Darren saying he would arrive at the B&B by 8am, but here it was 8:15 and there was no sign of Darren. Should she call him? Was she being to anxious? She decided to take her backpack out to the car and as she closed the trunk and turned around she saw Darren walking down the street toward her. It was almost 8:30.
“Sorry, had to take care of a few things,” he muttered mysteriously. “So how are you this morning? Did you sleep well?” he asked as if to brush off his first statement.
“I'm fine, is everything okay?” Cailin couldn't help but wonder if there was something she was missing, but Darren only smiled and nodded back.

“So where's you map, Cailin? I want to make sure you understand the route we are going to take and if there is something you want to see, we'll make a detour so you don't miss anything.”

They spread the map out over the hood of the car and planned the trip. They would head back out through Donegal and then south to Sligo. Cailin wanted to stop by Drumcliffe and see W.B. Yeats tomb and his famous mountain, Ben Bulben. She loved his poetry and just wanted to get a feel for the area. Besides this was where her grandfather had grown up. From there it would be further south to Cong and a visit to the Abbey there. It was an incredible ruin from pictures she had seen. Then on to Galway and west of Galway to Barna and Furbo where Darren's family was located. It would be a very long day.

Darren was unusually quiet at the start of the day. Cailin knew something was not right, she could sense it, but wasn't sure what it was. Was all this friendliness and flirting just a way to get to her? Was he taking advantage to get a ride to Galway? She hoped Darren would share, but was not going to push him. Once they were out on the open road, not really a highway, but a two lane road out of the city, Darren started the conversation asking Cailin about her interest in Ireland and Northern Ireland.

Cailin explained about getting lost on her way to the Antrim Coast and ending up in Mullaghmore. She told Darren about traveling to Ardboe and finding her great grandmother's name on an old memorial at the cemetery and and realizing it was who she was named after. While O'Neill was not her last name, it had always been part of the family name. She told Darren about how she found a relative in Mullaghmore who helped her get started on this journey.

And now to make the connection with where her grandfather had grown up before he left for American, would help her continue this journey.

At this point Cailin realized that she had been doing most of the talking while Darren drove and quietly listened. Finally Cailin had enough of his silence.
“Darren, I know we haven't been on the road for very long, but could we pull over at the next stop?” Darren didn't seem to pick up on Cailin's concern, and probably thought she just needed a rest stop. Little did Cailin, or even Darren know, from this point on, all things would change.

Travels in Eire #13

Cailin woke up a little worse for the wear but decided after a hearty breakfast that she would continue on the tour plan that she set up. Today she would head up to Gleveagh Park at the northern tip of Couty Donegal, and then head back down south and into Budoran or the town of Donegal depending on time.
It was a beautiful drive through the Derryveagh Mountains. Glenveagh was owned off and on by Irish Americans until it was turned over to the Irish government. The castle borders on Lough Veagh and this morning there was a hauntlingly misty fog over the lough. It just added more to the beauty of the area. The gardens were wonderfully manicured and the trails lead Cailin winding in and out of incredible views of the mountains and lough. Cailin was hoping to catch of glimpse of some of the red deer who roam the mountains here as one of the few remaining herds of red deer in Ireland.

Wishing she had a day or two here to hike the trails, Cailin put this location on her list of places to revisit and headed south toward the town of Donegal. The funny thing was that when she arrived at the crossroads on the motorway with one direction going further south to Donegal and the other heading back toward Derry, she suddenly found herself on the road to Derry. She was changing her plan and was not quite sure what was in store for her.
Cailin knew that if she was going to head back to Derry she needed to call Darren. She pulled off the road to grab a quick snack at Letterkenny and dialed his number. “What am I doing?” she asked herself as the phone rang.
“Well, well, Cailin, what can I do for you?” answered Darren.
She could tell by his voice he was pleased that she called.
“Well...,” she paused as she was not quite sure what to tell Darren. “I was coming south from Glenveagh and decided to come back to Derry.”
She waited for a response from Darren that would help her decide if she made a mistake heading back to Derry.
“Cailin, where are you? I can't believe you're coming back! What a very pleasant surprise.” Darren was being cautious with his enthusiasm.
“I'm in Buncarna and will be in Derry in about thirty minutes. Is that okay?” again she was trying to get a feeling as to whether she had made the right decision.
“Let me give you directions to where I am. I'll be off work by the time you are here and we can spend the rest of the day together.”
At last the slightest of a suggestion that Darren might be glad to see her.

She followed the directions into town and drove through the gateway to the hospital entrance finding Darren standing out front waiting for her. She couldn't miss that smile turning into a great grin, and she felt so much more at ease.
“I don't know what possessed me to do this,” she explained apologetically to Darren.
“Well, if you had not come back to Derry, I probably would have taken a day off to come and find you,” Darren chuckled surprising himself.

There was something so comfortable about being with Darren. Cailin had never met a man so easygoing and comfortable with himself. Darren watched Cailin as she seemed to be getting her bearings as a young woman. Smart, intelligent, but still a little unsure of herself, and not really connected yet. He found her openness very appealing.

This time Darren drove the rental car to a beautiful park just on the outside of Derry. They exited the car and walked over to a bench overlooking a pond. As they sat down Darren sat close to Cailin and asked, “Do you mind?” as he put his arm around her shoulders.
Cailin turned, looked into Darren's eyes, smiled and said, “Not at all.”

Cailin recounted her visit to Lough Swilly and how she felt the mystery of the place envelop her. And then told Darren about the beautiful gardens and trails at Glenveagh Park. He loved hearing about his country through Cailin's eyes.

“So what now, Cailin?” Darren asked. Cailin didn't quite know how to respond.
“ I guess I should get back on track and head for Galway. But it's a long drive from here, so I guess I'll be spending the night in Derry.”
Darren had a plan, but was unsure how Cailin would take the idea.
“Cailin, I have the next 3 days off, and like I told you the other day, my parents have a B&B just outside of Galway. I was going to take the train and visit them this weekend. How would you feel if we drove there together tomorrow? You would have a place to stay at the B&B and I could be your tour guide on the way?”
Cailin was thrilled at the idea, but didn't want Darren to think she was too anxious for the trip.
She gathered her emotions together and calmly told Darren that it was a wonderful idea, especially having a personal tour guide. Besides, driving all alone for hours was not what she considered a fun trip! So they sat and planned the next day's trip until dinner time. Darren suggested a little bistro where they went to eat and finalize plans. Cailin would stay at a B&B tonight near where Darren lived so they could get an early start in the morning. After Darren saw Cailin settled in the B&B he left, walking home in the still evening.

Travels in Eire #12

Cailin headed west from Derry leaving Northern Ireland toward Lough Swilly in County Donegal. There was no border, no guards, as there might have been years ago. The road signs were slightly different, and location signs were in both Gaelic and English now. Lough Swilly was a great resort area in the summer but it was also steeped in history. There were many stone age monuments, the Martello towers, and the story of the Flight of the Earls. Cailin had read about all of this before coming to Ireland. She loved the history of the area and wanted to take it all in. After stopping several times to sight see, she saw a sign for a cottage B&B and stopped by to see if there was a room available. A little elderly lady came to the door with a crisp white apron tied loosely around her tiny waist and introduced herself as Maeve, the owner. She welcomed Cailin showing her the one room available on the second floor. Cailin was amazed when she looked out the window and saw an incredible view of the lough from her room. She also sensed the smell of something baking downstairs and followed the scent down to the neatly set dining room where tea and scones had been set out for the guests. The room was flooded with the sunlight of the day and one side was full of windows looking out to the lough. Cailin picked up a warm scone from the display table, put some butter on the plate and some whiskey marmalade. Seating herself at a small table by a window she poured a cup of tea and enjoyed the warmth of the sun and flavors of this great treat. No sooner had she settled in than her cell phone rang. As she looked at the caller ID, she grinned. It was Darren.
“Are you missing me already?” she answered the phone.
“You bet,” Darren replied. “Just wanted to make sure you arrived in one piece. I also wanted to make sure you know that if you need anything you can just call. I know people all around the countryside and can get you help. Or I'll come and find you myself to help.”
After a short chat Cailin hung up, but the smile was still there as she gazed out the window. Maeve stopped by her table to ask if everything was okay.
“You look so lost in thought, lassie.”
“It's fine, I'm just enjoying my trip so very much,” Cailin responded. “I think I'll take a walk out by the lough this afternoon.”
“Be wary while you are there. There's many a story about how the lough is dangerous and how many have lost their lives there. It's truly a mysterious place at times.”
Cailin bid a good afternoon to Maeve, and with the warning in the back of her mind headed down to the shore for a stroll. The beach was actually deserted this afternoon as the clouds were out. The lough is extremely deep and the water a dark gray from the sky's reflection. Cailin could see how this scene could be ominous and foreboding. Yet this mysterious lough had a magical pull to it, almost mesmerizing. A chill ran up her spine and she shuddered. It was time to head back. Cailin sensed a sadness here. Or maybe it was just her.

It must have been hours that she was gone, even though it only felt like a short time. She checked her watch and it was past seven. As she walked back toward the B&B she stopped at a pub for some supper and a hot whiskey. Here she noticed as many times before that while she was welcomed in the pub, there were no other women. As she sat at the bar she asked the barman about this. He explained that most women in the countryside are at home during the week and come out to the pubs on the weekend when there is music, mostly Thursday and Saturday nights, and some Sunday afternoons. Since this was a weekday, it's mostly the men after work.
“Why is there no music on Friday night? Cailin asked.
“We don't need music to pull in the crowds on Friday, missy. It's payday and everyone heads to the pub on Friday after work,” he responded smiling.
It was a quiet night in the pub, and Cailin noticed that it was getting late. She would be heading up to the northern most point in County Donegal tomorrow and wanted to get a good night's rest. She said her goodnight to the barman and headed back to the B&B. When she got to her room, she took a last look out the window to see the moon setting over the lough. It was an eerie look. Cailin pulled the curtains closed and curled up under the down covers to a restless night's sleep. She dreamed of waves washing over her and trying to pull her into the lough. Must have been the stories that Maeve put into her head earlier in the day.

Travels in Eire #11

The sun came streaming through the window as Cailin rolled over to look at the clock. She was amazed to see it was 11:30 and jumped out of bed realizing she only had about an hour and a half to get ready to meet Darren for lunch. She also had to check out by noon and get her backpack returned to her car for when she left later in the day.
Cailin was trying to stay faithful to the plan that she had created with Rorey so that she could see the most of the country while here on vacation, but she was beginning to question this idea now that she had met Darren. Caution was her middle name when it came to men, but something was different here in Ireland. She never would have gone alone to a concert and then an after-party till the wee hours of the morning having just met a man in the in the states. Here she felt more at ease, or maybe she was being more adventurous. She really didn't care as she was having a great time.

She quickly showered, packed her backpack and headed down the stairs to the lobby. It was just after noon as Cailin checked out and turned around to see Darren standing behind her with that incredible smile of his. Today he was dressed in dark wash jeans and a crisply ironed dark shirt. Somewhere between his band casual and work casual. It suited him well.
“I was ready early so I thought I'd hang out in the lobby and wait for you,” his statement almost gave up his enthusiasm.
Cailin could do nothing but smile back. She was thrilled to see Darren already in the lobby.
“I have to put my backpack in my car before we go to lunch, if you don't mind,” Cailin told Darren.
“No problem,” Darren said grabbing the backpack and slinging it over his shoulder as they walked out of the hotel.
After dropping off her backpack, Cailin and Darren headed past the archway of one of the gates and into the city center. The streets and sidewalks were narrow and Darren put his hand on the small of Cailin's back to help guide her. It pulled the two of them closer together and Cailin felt her pulse rise with the warmth of Darren's hand on her back. As they walked Cailin asked Darren about his family and how he ended up in Derry working at the hospital.

Darren explained that he grew up in the Galway area, out on the Connemara Coast. His mom worked in a hospital in Galway, and his dad ran their B&B. His grandfather, who lived with them, was a champion whistle player and he grew up with the likes of some of the best musicians always visiting around his house, especially the famous Luke Kelly. Darren attended Galway University and majored in business. When it came time to find a job Darren found this clerk job in the Derry Children's hospital. One day they needed help with a fund raising project and asked for Darren's help. It was this one event that gave Darren the chance to prove himself and he did in a big way. The rest is all history, as Darren explained.

Cailin and Darren had walked quite a while and ended up at the Indigo Cafe on Shipquay Street. Definitely not a tourist spot and Cailin got the feeling that this was another location where many musicians gathered. Darren guided her inside, nodded at the barman as they headed to a snug in the corner. It was quiet inside and Darren sat next to Cailin instead of across from her. Cailin had no qualms about this, and was not bothered at all by the fact that they were sitting so close to each other.

Darren explained that why Indigo was not fancy, they had some great grub. Cailin let Darren order for her and was not disappointed. They shared a plate of cold smoked salmon and capers with brown bread, followed by a bowl of vegetable soup, and desert of a wine poached pear. Darren obviously had a great palate for delicious food. Just another thing that impressed Cailin.

Now that lunch was over, it was time for Cailin to think about getting on the road to her next destination. She hesitated mentioning this to Darren, but as so many times before, Darren was able to sense her concern.
“Cailin, I know you have something you need to do here in Ireland, and I don't want to keep you from that. I do want to make sure I don't lose touch with you and hopefully can see you before you go home,” Darren voiced everything that Cailin wanted to say.
Cailin could not have responded if she wanted to.
As Darren walked Cailin back to her car he reached for her hand, but instead put his arm around her shoulder and pulled her close to him. Cailin was very aware that this connection they had was something very special. As they reached the car Darren pulled out his cell phone and asked Cailin for her number, entering it right then. Cailin did the same. As she turned to open the car door, Darren put his hand on her shoulder and turned her around, leaning in and gently kissing Cailin.
“Hopefully that will keep me on your mind,” Darren joked as he pulled away and once again flashed that incredible smile that made Cailin smile.
“You're a hard one not to forget, Darren,” Cailin joked back and climbed into the driver's seat. “I'll be in touch, and hope you will too.”

As she pulled away, Cailin could see Darren in her rear view mirror. He made her feel so very happy.

Travels in Eire #10

Darren and Cailin exited the Forum by the front door. Their conversation was mostly about the concert that night with Darren asking her which groups she liked best, and telling her some background information on each of the groups. When there was a short pause in their chatter, Cailin seized the moment to bring up Darren's transformation from band groupie to professional fund raiser. “Just because I have a regular nine to five job doesn't mean I have to stay that way all the time." he chuckled and smiled. “I love music. For a long time I was in a band and hoped that would be my calling in life, but I guess I was meant to do other things.”
“At least you have found a way to stay in touch with your dream,” Cailin responded. “That's a rarity for so many people.”
“We're here,” Darren said, as they arrived at a large eclectic restaurant. “No one had a chance to eat before the show, so those who are staying in Derry tonight decided to meet here for some craic.”
He lead her upstairs to a large room decorated with pop art and bright colors and tables set for a crowd. There were a few people standing around talking as they moved into the room and Darren returned their waves. And so began Cailin's introduction to the energetic nightlife in Derry.

Darren lead Cailin around introducing her to so many musicians her head was spinning. She was trying desperately to remember everyone's name and the band they were with, but it was futile. Darren could see this and told her not to worry, as often the musicians played with more than one band and even he could not keep track. Again, Cailin seemed to be the center of discussion for those who had never been to America. They had so many questions, many about music that Cailin could not answer. The room was full of chatter and laughter. Toasts of “Slainte!” could be heard everywhere. And then the food came. It must have been ordered before as Cailin never saw anyone with a menu. Again, Darren could sense Cailin's question before she asked and told her that the hospital pays for the food, ordered in advance, as compensation for the hard work of the musicians. This restaurant gives an ample break on the price as part of their donation. Simple, but hardy fare. And Darren barely got finished explaining this when Cailin heard the sound of a strumming guitar. The after party was in full swing with the musicians performing for and with each other.

The party continued until the wee hours of the morning. In fact, Cailin didn't remember what time she and Darren left. She was floating with a little too much Guinness and music running through her head. Darren walked her back to her hotel and up to her room. Suddenly Cailin realized that she had actually had a date tonight with Darren and he was “walking her home”. At this thought, she immediately tensed up, and Darren took note.
“Cailin, I just wanted to make sure you arrived safe and sound back to your room. I did tell you earlier I'm not a creepy bloke!” and the hallway filled with his laughter.
Cailin lowered her head with embarrassment. “I...I...I just had such a good time and didn't want you to....”
“Cailin, I'm not that kind of guy, please”, he interrupted. “But I do have a request, if you are interested.”
Looking back up into Darren's smiling face Cailin nodded. It was uncanny how Darren knew her thoughts and questions before they were voiced.
“Would you like to meet for lunch tomorrow? I'd really like to see you again, and I doubt that either one of us will be up before noon!”
“Darren, that sounds great!” Cailin struggled to control her enthusiasm.
“Then I”ll pick you up in the lobby about one, okay?” and as he finished his question he leaned over, catching Cailin by surprise, and kissed her lightly on the cheek.
Cailin nodded again, speechless, and could feel the flush of her face. Darren flashed that incredible smile, reached around Cailin to open the door of her room for her, and turned to go down the hall, “Get a good night's rest.” And he headed for the stairs.

Cailin let herself into the room, locked the door, changed quickly and jumped into the bed. OMG!!! He's so, so......, and she never finished as she fell sound asleep.

Travels in Eire #9

Cailin found her way back to the parking lot, and to her car. She had a unique way to make sure she didn't have to lug her suitcase around everywhere. She opened the trunk of the car and pulled out the overnight backpack she had prepared that morning before leaving Magherafeld. Slinging the backpack over her shoulders she headed to the hotel that Rorey had marked for her to stay at when she was in Derry and got checked in for the night. With the information from the the desk clerk as to a place to go for dinner, Cailin headed out for the evening. The show at the Forum didn't start until 8PM, so Cailin had plenty of time. As she wandered the streets around the hotel she came across a lively pub called Sandino's down a side street, but hesitated entering as the outside was filled with what looked like a motorcycle convention. Was this the place she had heard about where so many rock bands performed? Possibly.

Turning around the corner and heading toward the Millennium Forum she found the small diner that had been recommended to her by the clerk. Time for some fish and chips tonight. Although she never really like them at home, somehow, here, in Ireland, they tasted different and they here they always come with something called mushy peas. Maybe the fact that so much of the food comes right off the farm to local produce sellers. No frozen peas here. And to wash is all down a wonderful Guinness. The fish was fresh and lightly battered, not overly done. And the large steak-style chips were hot and crispy on the outside. Cailin was full halfway through the meal.
It was still light outside. as it is in the summer in Ireland. And would stay light until around 10:30, but Cailin noticed it was about 7:30 and wanted to make sure to find the Forum, and purchase her ticket. It was only about a block away and the line was short. She hoped that Darren was able to get a lot of people to come for this worthwhile performance. Cailin had not really looked at the flier that Darren had given to her. She was not really familiar with any bands from the area, so it really didn't matter, but was curious as to who the bands were. As she perused the list she was surprised to see some names that struck her as quite strange. So different from the names of American groups that she followed. She was anxious to hear the music of these interesting groups.

She purchased her ticket, not having any idea as to where she was going to be sitting, but the person at the box office assured her it was s good seat since she was only purchasing a single seat. As she entered this amazing building, she took note that it was relatively new and designed with a very modern flair. Inside she headed to her seat in the third row, definitely a good seat.

The stage was wide open as this was a musical performance by multiple groups and people were scurrying around the stage. As she watched she noticed Darren. At one point he looked up and out to the audience. Cailin sheepishly waived at him since there were not too many people around yet. To her surprise, a huge smile crossed his face and he waived back. He was still in his jeans and t-shirt from earlier in the day. Her thoughts suddenly wandered to how handsome a lad he was. He had to be about the same age as Cailin. He seemed so focused when they met earlier, even though it was for such a short time. And while she was busy thinking this, she suddenly realized that Darren had jumped down from the stage and was standing beside her!
“Hi, again, Cailin,” he said to her with such a wonderful smile, it was hard to resist.
“Hi, Darren. This is a great place. I can't wait to hear all the music tonight,” she eagerly replied.
“Cailin, I know we just met this afternoon, but I was wondering if you have any plans for after the show tonight? I promise, I'm not a creepy guy.”
“A few of the people on the crew are going out to celebrate and I love to take you along. They'd love meeting an American visitor.”
Cailin was stunned. She wasn't quite sure, but Darren's disarming smile gave her the feeling that all would be fine. And since he promised that they would not be alone, she agreed to wait for him after the show.
As Darren hopped back up on to the stage he turned back and flashed that wonderful smile again. Cailin took a close look at this disarming man. His light brown shaggy hair, slight dimples and smile would get to anyone. He was tall, over 6 feet, and muscular, but not bulky. Quite the handsome Irishman.

Darren disappeared behind the stage and Cailin got settled into her seat looking around at all the people coming in for the show. About 15 minutes later the lights began to dim, and the audience started cheering. A lone figure stepped out onto the stage, wearing dress slacks and a crisp white shirt. It was Darren! He sure did clean up fine. He looked even better dressed so professionally like this.
It seems Darren was keeping a few things from Cailin. Specifically like the information that he was the hospital organizer for this kind of fund raiser. As he spoke to the audience about how important it was to support this cause Cailin noted how articulate he was and how confident. Was this the lad she met this afternoon? And as he spoke to the audience at one point he turned and looked at her and flashed just the hint of a smile, knowing all the while this was such a surprise to Cailin. She caught her breath and suddenly realized that her pulse was running a mile a minute. Before she could think any more about what was happening the music began and Darren disappeared behind the stage.

The night was electric with fun and funky music. Rock and soul, traditional and new. Bands and solo singers. Cailin was so happy Darren found her and told her about this. Between acts Darren would come out, talk about the charity, and introduce the next act. Each time just glancing over to her for the shortest of moments with that smile. Before she knew it, the show ended. As people left the venue, Cailin lingered behind, not sure where she would be meeting Darren. It wasn't more than 10 minutes before he came bounding out from behind the curtains and jumping off the stage wearing his jeans and t-shirt again. Cailin knew she was in for something special.

Travels in Eire #8

As Cailin drove through the countryside, she realized that she was more at ease driving on the left-hand side of the road. It definitely was not as awkward as it was when she first rented the car 5 days ago. She stopped often to take in the sites of the farmland and rolling hillsides. Here in Northern Ireland the land was mostly flat with small hills. She was heading to Derry, the Walled City. Cailin had heard so much about these ancient walls and how the city was called Derry, or Londonderry, depending on who you talked to. There were also some amazing artist murals painted on the sides of buildings as a reminder of times of The Troubles. Navigating around a city this size was really a challenge. Cailin found a multilevel parking lot just after she crossed the bridge into the city and breathed a sigh of relief. Here she could leave the car all day, or more, to stay overnight, if she chose.

Right across the street from the parking lot was the Tourist Office. Always the best place to go to get your bearings. She found out about a bus tour around the city to see the main sights. This was an easy choice. For a short while Cailin would be a typical tourist. The bus was full of young people wanting to see all the sights, too, with a couple of families, and older folk. A great mix. Cailin found a set near the window, camera at the ready.

As the bus circled around the Peace Statue that Cailin passed as she came across the bridge, she could now really get the feeling for the statue. Two young men standing on separate walls reaching out a hand in peace to each other. What a striking symbol for the fragile peace that seems to always be on the brink of falling apart. As they traveled on, Cailin saw the Guildhall, St. Columba's Cathedral, and all the new construction aimed at revitalizing this town. And then the most impressive site for her, the “You are now entering a free Derry” wall. From then on there were many buildings with the famous paintings reflecting scenes of what had happened during the discord in Northern Ireland. And the memorial for those 14 who lost their lives in the first few minutes. She had read about this, but it never touched her more than when she saw the murals, and the boglands.

After the bus tour Cailin headed around the corner from the Tourist Office to the huge shopping center. This was such a reflection of modern Derry. Multiple stories with more store than you could count. Across the way she she could see the relatively new Millennium Forum. Maybe there would be a concert there that she could catch tonight. After a quick lunch in the shopping center, Cailin exited the opposite door and found herself at one of the main gates for the Derry walls. It was Ferry Quay (pronounced key). She climbed the steps and started her journey around the ancient city by walking the walls. At her first stop Cailin found she could get a card and have it stamped at each location. At the end, it would show that she had walked the walls of Derry. What a fun thought and she was off on her way.
It was easy to see what a fortress the city could be protected by these walls. The top side of the walls were wide enough for a cart and horse, and more. Some still had cannons mounted. There were 4 gates. Most were pretty narrow by current standards, but cars still traveled through. Just past one gate was a guard tower that appeared to be still occupied. A very disconcerting thought. As Cailin stopped to look at the view beyond the city from one area, she was approached by a young good-looking man.

“Would you like to hear some good music tonight, miss?” he asked. “We have a gig playing not too far from here.” He handed her a flier with the information.
“I might consider it,” she replied.
“You must be American,” he smiled. “By the way, I'm Darren Come and say 'hey' if you go. It's going to be a great night. We're doing a benefit for children in need at the local hospital. There will be some other bands, and musicians. It's at the Forum.”
Cailin was thrilled to find a performance she would readily support and enjoy. “Looks like I've found my evening entertainment and I'm Cailin, “ she nodded, thinking to herself it might be nice to see this handsome lad again.
“Look forward to seeing you, Cailin. Great Irish name for a pretty American lass,” Darren grinned back at her. “Need to get the rest of these fliers out. Slan.”

Travels in Eire #7

Cailin was almost afraid to turn around. She was embarrassed about crying, but also a little hesitant to find out who was there.
“I see you found the family,” a strong smokey voice stated. And Cailin whirled around to see Rorey.
“What?” she queried indignantly, totally surprised to see Rorey standing behind her.
“You needed to find them on your own. I just couldn't tell you. This was your discovery to make. I'm glad to feel so attached,” Rorey explained.
“How...how, did you know? What am I missing?” she asked.
Rorey went on to explain that after talking to her in the cafe, and hearing the story of her grandmother, seeing what she looked like, he knew she was part of the O'Neill family. And so was he!
Rorey's great-grandfather was Nial O'Neill, the brother of Cailin O'Neill, Cailin's great-grandmother. So that made Rorey and Cailin third generation cousins. Cailin now understood why she felt so comfortable with Rorey, and not in a romantic way. They were family.

“But why send me on this journey?” she asked.
“I knew if you were interested, you would take the time to examine the tombstones when I sent you to Ardboe,” he explained. “I figured that you would be here today, so I made the trip from Mullaghmore. I needed to know how you felt about the family. So many people come here looking for a connection and don't find it. You did.”

As they talked Rorey filled her in more about the O'Neill family. And as the afternoon came and went the wind came up off Lough Neagh, and the air became chilly. Rorey could see that Cailin was getting cold and suggested they return to Coalisland to O'Neill's pub for some warm soup and soda bread. And yes, he explained, O'Neill's was owned by another family member.

This was hardly the vacation that Cailin was expecting, but she suddenly felt very connected to this country and the people. Her family had been here for hundreds of years. After more discussion with Rorey, he encouraged her to continue on this trip and return to Mullaghmore where he would be waiting.

Cailin and Rorey parted ways and Cailin headed to Magherafelt for the night. She found another great B&B with a pub close by. More music and great conversation met her here. She realized that she really didn't feel alone anymore.

Travels in Eire #6

The aromas of a hearty breakfast worked there way past the door of Cailin's room at the B&B as she woke up to a bleary day. She remembered what Rorey had said about it always raining in Ireland and it brought a smile to her face. After a nice hot shower Cailin made her way to the communal eating area and found a seat near the window. The cheery owner came by and asked if she would like a pot of tea and Cailin eagerly nodded. The steaming tea and some homemade brown bread with marmalade warmed her inside. This was quickly followed by a bowl of oatmeal. Cailin knew she would soon have clogged arteries if she continued eating an Ulster Fry every morning so opted for the Irish oatmeal this morning. Fortified and warmed inside and out, Cailin packed the car, checked her map and headed out for the day.

By the time Cailin got on the road the drizzle had stopped, and the sun was working its way from behind the clouds. She was off to Coalisland and then to Ardboe. Coalisland was just a bit bigger than Mullaghmore, but also felt so familiar. She walked around the town just a little, found a pub called O'Neill's and looked over the signs for nights when music could be found.
Her grandmother was an O'Neill and came from this general area. Cailin had never done any genealogy research, but knew this was the area where her grandmother was born. She wondered if O'Neill's pub was some vestige of her family heritage. But it was very early in the day and not open yet.

On the road again, Cailin headed to Ardboe. She wanted to see the old Celtic Cross that sat on a hill above Lough Neagh. Here the roads were very narrow and travel was slow. A small sign indicated the Ardobe cemetery and Cailin pulled as far to the side of the road as she could.

She could see the cross. It was worn where people had chipped pieces from the base to take with them as they left for America. Was that little piece of stone pebble in her grandmother's belongings from here?
Cailin continued on to the cemetery. Old and new blended together with tombstones all facing the waters of Lough Neagh. What an unusual place. And the church was all but ruins. As she wandered through the cemetery she noticed names on gravestones. Suddenly she stopped short. This old worn gravestone said Cailin O'Neill! This was HER name. At least her family name. Coincidence? She almost lost her breath. Studying the gravestone she saw the dates and suddenly realized this was her great-grandmother. She was told that she was named after this woman and never really expected to find her gravestone here in Ardboe. Now Cailin had her first connection to her family. Continuing to wander the cemetery she found more O'Neills. Based on dates and ages of the gravestones, these would be brothers, sisters, and parents of her great-grandmother. Cailin found half of her family and was standing in the cemetery with tears streaming down her face when she suddenly realized she was not alone.

Travels in Eire #5

So with her map and the help of Rorey's plan, the next morning Cailin set off to continue her adventure. Knowing in about a week she would be returning to Mullaghmore and hopeful to see Rorey again.

Cailin headed west from Mullaghmore to Armagh, a major religious center and legendary seat of the Celtic Kings of Ulster. While it was only a stone's throw up the road from Mullaghmore, it was a big and vibrant city. St. Patrick built his stone church here. Not far away are apple orchards and beautiful homes. She spent time checking out the many cathedrals here, all different, but all very beautiful. Cailin stayed here her first night out. She chose the Charlemont Arms Hotel right in the city centre. The hotel had it's own restaurant/bar and this night there was a trad session in the bar with some local musicians. She chose to sit at the bar and before she knew it she was engaged in the talk of the day. Her American accent didn't go unnoticed, and easily drew a group of very talkative natives. This is the kind of experience she was hoping for, full of energy and loads of “craic” (Gaelic for fun). As the evening drew to a close, she happily headed off to her room with a slight buzz from all the drink and talk. Rorey was right, she would find her Ireland on her own terms.

With a good night's sleep and a full Ulster Fry for breakfast, she was ready to start off to her next destination. Cailin had a few choices for roads that she could take. Following some would have her double back to the main road, and others would take back roads through the County Tyrone countryside and Sperrin Mountains. Wanting to get the feel for the countryside, she chose the back roads. First stop was the town of Dungannon, anchored by a cathedral and centered on a square. It was a busy bustling town, and today was market day. It was difficult to find a parking space, but with determination Cailin located one a block off the main square. She loved how vibrant the town was with all the shoppers checking out what the farmers and merchants had to sell. Knowing that she might want a snack along the road, she picked out some fresh strawberries and apples. The sights and sounds were so stimulating Cailin felt energized. Cailin knew she must move on to make the circular route and see more of this amazing country.

After locating her car, she headed just outside of Dunganon following the signs to the Tyrone Crystal Factory. From what she had read about this crystal factory they were in competition with Waterford, but in a smaller scale. Entering their lobby was a case with a beautiful crystal display. The information available told of how a local priest wanted to help provide jobs for the local youth so he brought in a crystal carver to teach the youth. The practiced on empty wine and whiskey bottles to start. Annually the Tyrone Crystal Factory makes the GAA championship trophy. The showroom was full of an incredible display of merchandise to purchase. Cailin found she was drawn to a simple vase with a Celtic design. Before any purchase, she signed up for a tour of the factory.

The factory was slow because of the recession, but at each stop the workers were friendly and ready to show their skill, whether it be blowing the glass, or carving it. With such a small group in the tour, when Cailin lagged behind a carver motioned to her to come closer to show how he intricately cut the design in the bowl he was working on. He told Cailin he was getting ready to retire as he had been at this for 25 years. His work weary smile touched Cailin's heart.

Cailin returned to the showroom and purchased the simple Celtic styled vase and a bowl like the one the carver had shown her. She knew it was one he had made and wanted to remember that special moment. Not wanting to carry these special pieces around, she had them shipped home.

The day was getting late, even though it stayed light until almost 10:00, but Cailin was tired. She found a quaint little B&B on the road to her next stop and was thrilled when they had a room available. The owner recommended a diner down the road, and after dinner, Cailin collapsed on the bed and fell fast asleep.