Travels in Eire #11

The sun came streaming through the window as Cailin rolled over to look at the clock. She was amazed to see it was 11:30 and jumped out of bed realizing she only had about an hour and a half to get ready to meet Darren for lunch. She also had to check out by noon and get her backpack returned to her car for when she left later in the day.
Cailin was trying to stay faithful to the plan that she had created with Rorey so that she could see the most of the country while here on vacation, but she was beginning to question this idea now that she had met Darren. Caution was her middle name when it came to men, but something was different here in Ireland. She never would have gone alone to a concert and then an after-party till the wee hours of the morning having just met a man in the in the states. Here she felt more at ease, or maybe she was being more adventurous. She really didn't care as she was having a great time.

She quickly showered, packed her backpack and headed down the stairs to the lobby. It was just after noon as Cailin checked out and turned around to see Darren standing behind her with that incredible smile of his. Today he was dressed in dark wash jeans and a crisply ironed dark shirt. Somewhere between his band casual and work casual. It suited him well.
“I was ready early so I thought I'd hang out in the lobby and wait for you,” his statement almost gave up his enthusiasm.
Cailin could do nothing but smile back. She was thrilled to see Darren already in the lobby.
“I have to put my backpack in my car before we go to lunch, if you don't mind,” Cailin told Darren.
“No problem,” Darren said grabbing the backpack and slinging it over his shoulder as they walked out of the hotel.
After dropping off her backpack, Cailin and Darren headed past the archway of one of the gates and into the city center. The streets and sidewalks were narrow and Darren put his hand on the small of Cailin's back to help guide her. It pulled the two of them closer together and Cailin felt her pulse rise with the warmth of Darren's hand on her back. As they walked Cailin asked Darren about his family and how he ended up in Derry working at the hospital.

Darren explained that he grew up in the Galway area, out on the Connemara Coast. His mom worked in a hospital in Galway, and his dad ran their B&B. His grandfather, who lived with them, was a champion whistle player and he grew up with the likes of some of the best musicians always visiting around his house, especially the famous Luke Kelly. Darren attended Galway University and majored in business. When it came time to find a job Darren found this clerk job in the Derry Children's hospital. One day they needed help with a fund raising project and asked for Darren's help. It was this one event that gave Darren the chance to prove himself and he did in a big way. The rest is all history, as Darren explained.

Cailin and Darren had walked quite a while and ended up at the Indigo Cafe on Shipquay Street. Definitely not a tourist spot and Cailin got the feeling that this was another location where many musicians gathered. Darren guided her inside, nodded at the barman as they headed to a snug in the corner. It was quiet inside and Darren sat next to Cailin instead of across from her. Cailin had no qualms about this, and was not bothered at all by the fact that they were sitting so close to each other.

Darren explained that why Indigo was not fancy, they had some great grub. Cailin let Darren order for her and was not disappointed. They shared a plate of cold smoked salmon and capers with brown bread, followed by a bowl of vegetable soup, and desert of a wine poached pear. Darren obviously had a great palate for delicious food. Just another thing that impressed Cailin.

Now that lunch was over, it was time for Cailin to think about getting on the road to her next destination. She hesitated mentioning this to Darren, but as so many times before, Darren was able to sense her concern.
“Cailin, I know you have something you need to do here in Ireland, and I don't want to keep you from that. I do want to make sure I don't lose touch with you and hopefully can see you before you go home,” Darren voiced everything that Cailin wanted to say.
Cailin could not have responded if she wanted to.
As Darren walked Cailin back to her car he reached for her hand, but instead put his arm around her shoulder and pulled her close to him. Cailin was very aware that this connection they had was something very special. As they reached the car Darren pulled out his cell phone and asked Cailin for her number, entering it right then. Cailin did the same. As she turned to open the car door, Darren put his hand on her shoulder and turned her around, leaning in and gently kissing Cailin.
“Hopefully that will keep me on your mind,” Darren joked as he pulled away and once again flashed that incredible smile that made Cailin smile.
“You're a hard one not to forget, Darren,” Cailin joked back and climbed into the driver's seat. “I'll be in touch, and hope you will too.”

As she pulled away, Cailin could see Darren in her rear view mirror. He made her feel so very happy.

Travels in Eire #10

Darren and Cailin exited the Forum by the front door. Their conversation was mostly about the concert that night with Darren asking her which groups she liked best, and telling her some background information on each of the groups. When there was a short pause in their chatter, Cailin seized the moment to bring up Darren's transformation from band groupie to professional fund raiser. “Just because I have a regular nine to five job doesn't mean I have to stay that way all the time." he chuckled and smiled. “I love music. For a long time I was in a band and hoped that would be my calling in life, but I guess I was meant to do other things.”
“At least you have found a way to stay in touch with your dream,” Cailin responded. “That's a rarity for so many people.”
“We're here,” Darren said, as they arrived at a large eclectic restaurant. “No one had a chance to eat before the show, so those who are staying in Derry tonight decided to meet here for some craic.”
He lead her upstairs to a large room decorated with pop art and bright colors and tables set for a crowd. There were a few people standing around talking as they moved into the room and Darren returned their waves. And so began Cailin's introduction to the energetic nightlife in Derry.

Darren lead Cailin around introducing her to so many musicians her head was spinning. She was trying desperately to remember everyone's name and the band they were with, but it was futile. Darren could see this and told her not to worry, as often the musicians played with more than one band and even he could not keep track. Again, Cailin seemed to be the center of discussion for those who had never been to America. They had so many questions, many about music that Cailin could not answer. The room was full of chatter and laughter. Toasts of “Slainte!” could be heard everywhere. And then the food came. It must have been ordered before as Cailin never saw anyone with a menu. Again, Darren could sense Cailin's question before she asked and told her that the hospital pays for the food, ordered in advance, as compensation for the hard work of the musicians. This restaurant gives an ample break on the price as part of their donation. Simple, but hardy fare. And Darren barely got finished explaining this when Cailin heard the sound of a strumming guitar. The after party was in full swing with the musicians performing for and with each other.

The party continued until the wee hours of the morning. In fact, Cailin didn't remember what time she and Darren left. She was floating with a little too much Guinness and music running through her head. Darren walked her back to her hotel and up to her room. Suddenly Cailin realized that she had actually had a date tonight with Darren and he was “walking her home”. At this thought, she immediately tensed up, and Darren took note.
“Cailin, I just wanted to make sure you arrived safe and sound back to your room. I did tell you earlier I'm not a creepy bloke!” and the hallway filled with his laughter.
Cailin lowered her head with embarrassment. “I...I...I just had such a good time and didn't want you to....”
“Cailin, I'm not that kind of guy, please”, he interrupted. “But I do have a request, if you are interested.”
Looking back up into Darren's smiling face Cailin nodded. It was uncanny how Darren knew her thoughts and questions before they were voiced.
“Would you like to meet for lunch tomorrow? I'd really like to see you again, and I doubt that either one of us will be up before noon!”
“Darren, that sounds great!” Cailin struggled to control her enthusiasm.
“Then I”ll pick you up in the lobby about one, okay?” and as he finished his question he leaned over, catching Cailin by surprise, and kissed her lightly on the cheek.
Cailin nodded again, speechless, and could feel the flush of her face. Darren flashed that incredible smile, reached around Cailin to open the door of her room for her, and turned to go down the hall, “Get a good night's rest.” And he headed for the stairs.

Cailin let herself into the room, locked the door, changed quickly and jumped into the bed. OMG!!! He's so, so......, and she never finished as she fell sound asleep.

Travels in Eire #9

Cailin found her way back to the parking lot, and to her car. She had a unique way to make sure she didn't have to lug her suitcase around everywhere. She opened the trunk of the car and pulled out the overnight backpack she had prepared that morning before leaving Magherafeld. Slinging the backpack over her shoulders she headed to the hotel that Rorey had marked for her to stay at when she was in Derry and got checked in for the night. With the information from the the desk clerk as to a place to go for dinner, Cailin headed out for the evening. The show at the Forum didn't start until 8PM, so Cailin had plenty of time. As she wandered the streets around the hotel she came across a lively pub called Sandino's down a side street, but hesitated entering as the outside was filled with what looked like a motorcycle convention. Was this the place she had heard about where so many rock bands performed? Possibly.

Turning around the corner and heading toward the Millennium Forum she found the small diner that had been recommended to her by the clerk. Time for some fish and chips tonight. Although she never really like them at home, somehow, here, in Ireland, they tasted different and they here they always come with something called mushy peas. Maybe the fact that so much of the food comes right off the farm to local produce sellers. No frozen peas here. And to wash is all down a wonderful Guinness. The fish was fresh and lightly battered, not overly done. And the large steak-style chips were hot and crispy on the outside. Cailin was full halfway through the meal.
It was still light outside. as it is in the summer in Ireland. And would stay light until around 10:30, but Cailin noticed it was about 7:30 and wanted to make sure to find the Forum, and purchase her ticket. It was only about a block away and the line was short. She hoped that Darren was able to get a lot of people to come for this worthwhile performance. Cailin had not really looked at the flier that Darren had given to her. She was not really familiar with any bands from the area, so it really didn't matter, but was curious as to who the bands were. As she perused the list she was surprised to see some names that struck her as quite strange. So different from the names of American groups that she followed. She was anxious to hear the music of these interesting groups.

She purchased her ticket, not having any idea as to where she was going to be sitting, but the person at the box office assured her it was s good seat since she was only purchasing a single seat. As she entered this amazing building, she took note that it was relatively new and designed with a very modern flair. Inside she headed to her seat in the third row, definitely a good seat.

The stage was wide open as this was a musical performance by multiple groups and people were scurrying around the stage. As she watched she noticed Darren. At one point he looked up and out to the audience. Cailin sheepishly waived at him since there were not too many people around yet. To her surprise, a huge smile crossed his face and he waived back. He was still in his jeans and t-shirt from earlier in the day. Her thoughts suddenly wandered to how handsome a lad he was. He had to be about the same age as Cailin. He seemed so focused when they met earlier, even though it was for such a short time. And while she was busy thinking this, she suddenly realized that Darren had jumped down from the stage and was standing beside her!
“Hi, again, Cailin,” he said to her with such a wonderful smile, it was hard to resist.
“Hi, Darren. This is a great place. I can't wait to hear all the music tonight,” she eagerly replied.
“Cailin, I know we just met this afternoon, but I was wondering if you have any plans for after the show tonight? I promise, I'm not a creepy guy.”
“A few of the people on the crew are going out to celebrate and I love to take you along. They'd love meeting an American visitor.”
Cailin was stunned. She wasn't quite sure, but Darren's disarming smile gave her the feeling that all would be fine. And since he promised that they would not be alone, she agreed to wait for him after the show.
As Darren hopped back up on to the stage he turned back and flashed that wonderful smile again. Cailin took a close look at this disarming man. His light brown shaggy hair, slight dimples and smile would get to anyone. He was tall, over 6 feet, and muscular, but not bulky. Quite the handsome Irishman.

Darren disappeared behind the stage and Cailin got settled into her seat looking around at all the people coming in for the show. About 15 minutes later the lights began to dim, and the audience started cheering. A lone figure stepped out onto the stage, wearing dress slacks and a crisp white shirt. It was Darren! He sure did clean up fine. He looked even better dressed so professionally like this.
It seems Darren was keeping a few things from Cailin. Specifically like the information that he was the hospital organizer for this kind of fund raiser. As he spoke to the audience about how important it was to support this cause Cailin noted how articulate he was and how confident. Was this the lad she met this afternoon? And as he spoke to the audience at one point he turned and looked at her and flashed just the hint of a smile, knowing all the while this was such a surprise to Cailin. She caught her breath and suddenly realized that her pulse was running a mile a minute. Before she could think any more about what was happening the music began and Darren disappeared behind the stage.

The night was electric with fun and funky music. Rock and soul, traditional and new. Bands and solo singers. Cailin was so happy Darren found her and told her about this. Between acts Darren would come out, talk about the charity, and introduce the next act. Each time just glancing over to her for the shortest of moments with that smile. Before she knew it, the show ended. As people left the venue, Cailin lingered behind, not sure where she would be meeting Darren. It wasn't more than 10 minutes before he came bounding out from behind the curtains and jumping off the stage wearing his jeans and t-shirt again. Cailin knew she was in for something special.

Travels in Eire #8

As Cailin drove through the countryside, she realized that she was more at ease driving on the left-hand side of the road. It definitely was not as awkward as it was when she first rented the car 5 days ago. She stopped often to take in the sites of the farmland and rolling hillsides. Here in Northern Ireland the land was mostly flat with small hills. She was heading to Derry, the Walled City. Cailin had heard so much about these ancient walls and how the city was called Derry, or Londonderry, depending on who you talked to. There were also some amazing artist murals painted on the sides of buildings as a reminder of times of The Troubles. Navigating around a city this size was really a challenge. Cailin found a multilevel parking lot just after she crossed the bridge into the city and breathed a sigh of relief. Here she could leave the car all day, or more, to stay overnight, if she chose.

Right across the street from the parking lot was the Tourist Office. Always the best place to go to get your bearings. She found out about a bus tour around the city to see the main sights. This was an easy choice. For a short while Cailin would be a typical tourist. The bus was full of young people wanting to see all the sights, too, with a couple of families, and older folk. A great mix. Cailin found a set near the window, camera at the ready.

As the bus circled around the Peace Statue that Cailin passed as she came across the bridge, she could now really get the feeling for the statue. Two young men standing on separate walls reaching out a hand in peace to each other. What a striking symbol for the fragile peace that seems to always be on the brink of falling apart. As they traveled on, Cailin saw the Guildhall, St. Columba's Cathedral, and all the new construction aimed at revitalizing this town. And then the most impressive site for her, the “You are now entering a free Derry” wall. From then on there were many buildings with the famous paintings reflecting scenes of what had happened during the discord in Northern Ireland. And the memorial for those 14 who lost their lives in the first few minutes. She had read about this, but it never touched her more than when she saw the murals, and the boglands.

After the bus tour Cailin headed around the corner from the Tourist Office to the huge shopping center. This was such a reflection of modern Derry. Multiple stories with more store than you could count. Across the way she she could see the relatively new Millennium Forum. Maybe there would be a concert there that she could catch tonight. After a quick lunch in the shopping center, Cailin exited the opposite door and found herself at one of the main gates for the Derry walls. It was Ferry Quay (pronounced key). She climbed the steps and started her journey around the ancient city by walking the walls. At her first stop Cailin found she could get a card and have it stamped at each location. At the end, it would show that she had walked the walls of Derry. What a fun thought and she was off on her way.
It was easy to see what a fortress the city could be protected by these walls. The top side of the walls were wide enough for a cart and horse, and more. Some still had cannons mounted. There were 4 gates. Most were pretty narrow by current standards, but cars still traveled through. Just past one gate was a guard tower that appeared to be still occupied. A very disconcerting thought. As Cailin stopped to look at the view beyond the city from one area, she was approached by a young good-looking man.

“Would you like to hear some good music tonight, miss?” he asked. “We have a gig playing not too far from here.” He handed her a flier with the information.
“I might consider it,” she replied.
“You must be American,” he smiled. “By the way, I'm Darren Come and say 'hey' if you go. It's going to be a great night. We're doing a benefit for children in need at the local hospital. There will be some other bands, and musicians. It's at the Forum.”
Cailin was thrilled to find a performance she would readily support and enjoy. “Looks like I've found my evening entertainment and I'm Cailin, “ she nodded, thinking to herself it might be nice to see this handsome lad again.
“Look forward to seeing you, Cailin. Great Irish name for a pretty American lass,” Darren grinned back at her. “Need to get the rest of these fliers out. Slan.”

Travels in Eire #7

Cailin was almost afraid to turn around. She was embarrassed about crying, but also a little hesitant to find out who was there.
“I see you found the family,” a strong smokey voice stated. And Cailin whirled around to see Rorey.
“What?” she queried indignantly, totally surprised to see Rorey standing behind her.
“You needed to find them on your own. I just couldn't tell you. This was your discovery to make. I'm glad to feel so attached,” Rorey explained.
“How...how, did you know? What am I missing?” she asked.
Rorey went on to explain that after talking to her in the cafe, and hearing the story of her grandmother, seeing what she looked like, he knew she was part of the O'Neill family. And so was he!
Rorey's great-grandfather was Nial O'Neill, the brother of Cailin O'Neill, Cailin's great-grandmother. So that made Rorey and Cailin third generation cousins. Cailin now understood why she felt so comfortable with Rorey, and not in a romantic way. They were family.

“But why send me on this journey?” she asked.
“I knew if you were interested, you would take the time to examine the tombstones when I sent you to Ardboe,” he explained. “I figured that you would be here today, so I made the trip from Mullaghmore. I needed to know how you felt about the family. So many people come here looking for a connection and don't find it. You did.”

As they talked Rorey filled her in more about the O'Neill family. And as the afternoon came and went the wind came up off Lough Neagh, and the air became chilly. Rorey could see that Cailin was getting cold and suggested they return to Coalisland to O'Neill's pub for some warm soup and soda bread. And yes, he explained, O'Neill's was owned by another family member.

This was hardly the vacation that Cailin was expecting, but she suddenly felt very connected to this country and the people. Her family had been here for hundreds of years. After more discussion with Rorey, he encouraged her to continue on this trip and return to Mullaghmore where he would be waiting.

Cailin and Rorey parted ways and Cailin headed to Magherafelt for the night. She found another great B&B with a pub close by. More music and great conversation met her here. She realized that she really didn't feel alone anymore.

Travels in Eire #6

The aromas of a hearty breakfast worked there way past the door of Cailin's room at the B&B as she woke up to a bleary day. She remembered what Rorey had said about it always raining in Ireland and it brought a smile to her face. After a nice hot shower Cailin made her way to the communal eating area and found a seat near the window. The cheery owner came by and asked if she would like a pot of tea and Cailin eagerly nodded. The steaming tea and some homemade brown bread with marmalade warmed her inside. This was quickly followed by a bowl of oatmeal. Cailin knew she would soon have clogged arteries if she continued eating an Ulster Fry every morning so opted for the Irish oatmeal this morning. Fortified and warmed inside and out, Cailin packed the car, checked her map and headed out for the day.

By the time Cailin got on the road the drizzle had stopped, and the sun was working its way from behind the clouds. She was off to Coalisland and then to Ardboe. Coalisland was just a bit bigger than Mullaghmore, but also felt so familiar. She walked around the town just a little, found a pub called O'Neill's and looked over the signs for nights when music could be found.
Her grandmother was an O'Neill and came from this general area. Cailin had never done any genealogy research, but knew this was the area where her grandmother was born. She wondered if O'Neill's pub was some vestige of her family heritage. But it was very early in the day and not open yet.

On the road again, Cailin headed to Ardboe. She wanted to see the old Celtic Cross that sat on a hill above Lough Neagh. Here the roads were very narrow and travel was slow. A small sign indicated the Ardobe cemetery and Cailin pulled as far to the side of the road as she could.

She could see the cross. It was worn where people had chipped pieces from the base to take with them as they left for America. Was that little piece of stone pebble in her grandmother's belongings from here?
Cailin continued on to the cemetery. Old and new blended together with tombstones all facing the waters of Lough Neagh. What an unusual place. And the church was all but ruins. As she wandered through the cemetery she noticed names on gravestones. Suddenly she stopped short. This old worn gravestone said Cailin O'Neill! This was HER name. At least her family name. Coincidence? She almost lost her breath. Studying the gravestone she saw the dates and suddenly realized this was her great-grandmother. She was told that she was named after this woman and never really expected to find her gravestone here in Ardboe. Now Cailin had her first connection to her family. Continuing to wander the cemetery she found more O'Neills. Based on dates and ages of the gravestones, these would be brothers, sisters, and parents of her great-grandmother. Cailin found half of her family and was standing in the cemetery with tears streaming down her face when she suddenly realized she was not alone.

Travels in Eire #5

So with her map and the help of Rorey's plan, the next morning Cailin set off to continue her adventure. Knowing in about a week she would be returning to Mullaghmore and hopeful to see Rorey again.

Cailin headed west from Mullaghmore to Armagh, a major religious center and legendary seat of the Celtic Kings of Ulster. While it was only a stone's throw up the road from Mullaghmore, it was a big and vibrant city. St. Patrick built his stone church here. Not far away are apple orchards and beautiful homes. She spent time checking out the many cathedrals here, all different, but all very beautiful. Cailin stayed here her first night out. She chose the Charlemont Arms Hotel right in the city centre. The hotel had it's own restaurant/bar and this night there was a trad session in the bar with some local musicians. She chose to sit at the bar and before she knew it she was engaged in the talk of the day. Her American accent didn't go unnoticed, and easily drew a group of very talkative natives. This is the kind of experience she was hoping for, full of energy and loads of “craic” (Gaelic for fun). As the evening drew to a close, she happily headed off to her room with a slight buzz from all the drink and talk. Rorey was right, she would find her Ireland on her own terms.

With a good night's sleep and a full Ulster Fry for breakfast, she was ready to start off to her next destination. Cailin had a few choices for roads that she could take. Following some would have her double back to the main road, and others would take back roads through the County Tyrone countryside and Sperrin Mountains. Wanting to get the feel for the countryside, she chose the back roads. First stop was the town of Dungannon, anchored by a cathedral and centered on a square. It was a busy bustling town, and today was market day. It was difficult to find a parking space, but with determination Cailin located one a block off the main square. She loved how vibrant the town was with all the shoppers checking out what the farmers and merchants had to sell. Knowing that she might want a snack along the road, she picked out some fresh strawberries and apples. The sights and sounds were so stimulating Cailin felt energized. Cailin knew she must move on to make the circular route and see more of this amazing country.

After locating her car, she headed just outside of Dunganon following the signs to the Tyrone Crystal Factory. From what she had read about this crystal factory they were in competition with Waterford, but in a smaller scale. Entering their lobby was a case with a beautiful crystal display. The information available told of how a local priest wanted to help provide jobs for the local youth so he brought in a crystal carver to teach the youth. The practiced on empty wine and whiskey bottles to start. Annually the Tyrone Crystal Factory makes the GAA championship trophy. The showroom was full of an incredible display of merchandise to purchase. Cailin found she was drawn to a simple vase with a Celtic design. Before any purchase, she signed up for a tour of the factory.

The factory was slow because of the recession, but at each stop the workers were friendly and ready to show their skill, whether it be blowing the glass, or carving it. With such a small group in the tour, when Cailin lagged behind a carver motioned to her to come closer to show how he intricately cut the design in the bowl he was working on. He told Cailin he was getting ready to retire as he had been at this for 25 years. His work weary smile touched Cailin's heart.

Cailin returned to the showroom and purchased the simple Celtic styled vase and a bowl like the one the carver had shown her. She knew it was one he had made and wanted to remember that special moment. Not wanting to carry these special pieces around, she had them shipped home.

The day was getting late, even though it stayed light until almost 10:00, but Cailin was tired. She found a quaint little B&B on the road to her next stop and was thrilled when they had a room available. The owner recommended a diner down the road, and after dinner, Cailin collapsed on the bed and fell fast asleep.